....After the exertion of the previous day, Kel & I slept in and had no real agenda. Despite that, we managed a fair amount. Our first point of call was to recruit Doug on our search for a local burger, that had suddenly become the only nourishment that mattered. We settled with a Gourmet Burger, (in an unusually, off peak, soulless Spitalfields), which actually hit the spot perfectly.
The show exhibits the British photographer's work from 1981 - 2006, which in it's entirety is a vast body of work, but on display was a carefully edited cross section.
[Photo from a series documenting Britain's jobless in the 80s]
I enjoyed the work, generally preferring his earlier photographs across Britain & Europe to those taken in the US. The vivid colour and often large scale printing of the imagery, gave many of the pieces an almost textural, painterly aspect that was startling.
House viewing: A couple view one of Graham's middle America shots, (c/o Doug)
Graham's documentation is a theme that he retains throughout, and where I find most success and reward in his work. 'A1 - The Great North Road (1981-82)' follows exactly that - be it photos of the road itself, or the characters met along the way.
Similarly in the latter project of this exhibition, 'A Shimmer of Possibility (2004-6)', Graham follows subjects in the US going about their every day life. But in doing so writes us a pictorial story, in to which we interject the narrative.
Pittsburgh, 2004
A good exhibition, but could have possibly been even more in depth.
Leaving, Doug, Kel & I retraced our steps along Brick Lane, to find Marques Toliver, (a recent discovery of mine through Jools Holland), busking to a small crowd.
The talented solo performer imparts his soulful voice to a string section of either individual violin or guitar. He sounded phenomenal, and we felt lucky to have stumbled across him. A real treat.
Kel & I stayed in for the rest of the evening - relaxing with dinner & a film. But another excellent day had.
....Five years since his last record, We Have Sound, former college colleague turned mucial maestro, Tom Vernon Kel is back. Out of nowhere, he has a new album, Leisure Seizure and this fantastic new video, A Chore, directed by his pal Ollie Evans.
The new album, from Brooklyn's finest is out now. I've yet to give it a full listen, but expect to hear falsetto-rock-blues-pop-wig-out of the highest order. Sometimes their music is indefinable, but always absorbing.
TVOTR
And if you like your music visual, then they have that to. TVOTR have created a rather wonderful 'film' of their album, whereby each track plays back to back, with a video for each.
....Kelly and I returned on Monday from our month long trip in South America. Just to remind you, we were given the opportunity after I won an award at work. In memory of Matt Elliott, a former employee of AMV who tragically died, the 'Radiator Award' is a 2 week travel bursary that, in his spirit, should be used for the 'adventure of a lifetime'. We extended our 2 weeks to a month and late last year booked the trip with Trailfinders, them helping us to work out the most suitable, productive route to take. So it transpired we were to visit Argentina, (Buenos Aires / Mendoza / Iguazu Falls), Brazil, (Rio) and Colombia, (Taganga / Sierra Nevada for the 'Lost City' trek / Cartagena).
This is, (as briefly as possible), how it all shaped up:
Buenos Aires, Argentina. We spent 5 days here, staying in the San Telmo district, with it's antiques shops and a market on Sundays. Our highlight was an empanada cooking class in the suburbs of the city. It was hosted by Teresita, at her lovely home and included a vast, meat laden barbeque with plenty of wine. We also saw in New Year whilst we were here, dining al fresco on Plaza Dorrego - a superb evening. We also enjoyed Recoleta cemetery and La Boca.
(New Year's Eve)
Mendoza, Argentina. We took an overnight bus, that was more akin to flying business class, to reach Mendoza. Here we completed a vineyard tour, in Chacras de Coria, by bicycle, spent a day horse trekking in the shadow of the Andes and ate our best steak, at Don Mario.
Iguazu Falls, Argentina. Perhaps the highlight of my whole trip, the falls blew me away. They can be witnessed from both Brazil and Argentina, which we did. In one day. The sheer volume of water and the noisy rage that ensues, is breath taking. Our accommodation here was also spectacular in its own, hidden, secretive way. A wonderful couple of days.
(Our accommodation & the falls)
Rio, Brazil. This, due to its brief nature, could almost be considered a token visit. Only 3 days. But boy was it worth it. We crammed in Corcovado, (statue of Christ), a Favela tour, Santa Teresa and time on Ipanema beach.
Taganga, Colombia. We landed at Santa Marta, but our bags didn't. We moved on to Taganga where we had accommodation. 27 hours later, our bags were returned. Two hours after that, they were gone again: stolen, after our room was broken in to. One hour after that, they returned once more, after being gathered from the hillside behind our hostel, minus a few items. Drama. As a result of this, our time in Taganga wasn't as productive as we hoped, but still enjoyable.
Cuidad Perdida, (Lost City), trek, Sierra Nevada, Colombia. An incredible five day trek, reaching the city on day three, then retracing our steps a day quicker on the return. The trek itself was a challenge, with some gruelling hills and ravine crossings, whilst the city exceeded all expectations in its scale, history and beauty. We were treated exceptionally well throughout, with our guide Ali & his team being informative, helpful, master chefs and fruit providers at the most crucial times. We walked with wonderful people and so had a wonderful time.
Cartagena, Colombia. The final destination of our holiday and the most architecturally beautiful. The old city, surrounded by a thick defence wall, with cannons peeping out, used to keep pirates at bay way back when. The buildings within these walls have remained untouched, providing an almost living museum of colonial housing lining intertwined streets, each charismatic in it's colour and decay. Down the road, the oh so different new city, where high rise hotels and casinos are the backdrop to Cartagena's beach. It isn't the greatest beach, so Kelly and I visited the truly Carribbean Playa Blanca to really relax.
Home. London. Now we're back, it has taken this week to fully recover. We lost a night's sleep due to travel, so have been catching up ever since. It has also taken a week to fully recognise just what an incredible month we have had. How fortunate we have been, what truly memorable sights and fantastic people that we've met. I would like to take the opportunity to once again thank AMV, for the generosity of the award, but also for the great spirit in which it is given. Also to thank Matt's parents, Rick & Sue and his sister Sarah for their endless positivity and warmth - the gift of a journal that they gave me, now fully filled, will be appearing on these pages very soon. (You can follow Rick & Sue on their antipodean adventure here.)
....Today saw the live final of X Factor. Yes, that's right. I've been watching and, admit it, so have you.
Gathered
Hannah & Max decided to throw a dinner party in celebration, where we were encouraged to dress in an X Factor theme.
Cher & Simon
Richie, (as Wagner) and Max, (as Cher) stole the show, with Hannah and Lynn manning it up as Simon Cowell.
Wagner
Both Doug and I suited it up to do our best Dermot impression, and Liam looked startlingly similar to one or both of Jedward.
Dermots'
Jedward
The show itself was a long, fattening, overdrawn affair, with a result of Matt Cardle winning, followed by Rebecca Ferguson and One Direction. In truth, the top two are actually very good singers, worthy of the likely fame that will ensue. But now it's over for another year, I think I will just about survive. Just. Merry X-MAS!
....This year was a more opulent affair, with a, (slightly obvious and perhaps too well tread), Mad Men theme, held at Molton House. The theme allowed for the ladies to look truly spectacular, courtesy of hair & make-up stylists working there socks off throughout the day to satisfy demand. The chaps got to don their favourite suits, perhaps spray their hair grey a la Roger Sterling and there were certainly more spectacles on show than I'd seen before. Entertainment was provided by the truly exceptional AMV Band, followed by enough music and dancing to tire the most energetic of us.
A great celebration of the year and to see in Christmas. (I'm writing this from an empty floor, mind, so not sure how much work will get done today......)
....Tonight I surprised Kelly with an early Christmas present, with tickets to see Bill Bailey at the Wyndham Theatre.
We began the evening with a quick bite to eat at the marvellously unpretentious and hearty eaterie that is Gaby's cafe, in the heart of Leicester Square.
Kel & I were really excited to see Bill Bailey, after becoming fans from his numerous appearances on panel shows like Buzzcocks and QI, alongside brilliant comedies like Black Books. Tonight's performance was along the theme of doubt.......or was it?!.....and allowed Bailey's idiosyncratic comedy to come to the fore.
Bill Bailey's Essential Guide to the Orchestra
He is like a more musically proficient Stewart Lee in terms of his intelligent, surreal, punk-ethic routines. You can sit there and split your sides, or alternatively have a five minute period where you haven't laughed, but remain totally and utterly engaged. The show covered topics from football, to politics, advertising to music and of course doubt.
Apocalyptic rave
Interestingly, Bailey raised a story about his use of Spanish on a trip to Columbia. Kelly and my ears pricked as he continued on about Santa Marta and the Lost City Trek - exactly what we'll be doing come January. If it's good enough for Bill, (even if he was stoned), it's good enough for us. And so was tonight. Rambling, surreal, infectious, musical, intelligent, hysterical comedy genius.
....Kelly and I joined Sarah and Sandra at the Roundhouse for this anticipated gig.
Sarah, Sandra, Kelly, Roy
Having previously seen Yeasayer, outdoor at LoveBox, earlier in the year, I was keen to see if an indoor, more prestigious environment would alter my perspective. It did to an extent, in that I felt their more slow, broody songs really held up, with the vocal arrangements even more startling in their execution. However, the more upbeat numbers around which Yeasayer's reputation has grown, (and where they triumphed outdoor), felt a little bit hollow and subdued. Or maybe we, as a crowd, just weren't on form.
I didn't think it was helped by a lack of stage theatre. For all their well thought, innovative artwork and often bizarre videos, a simple white cloth is all that adorned the stage.
Album artwork for Odd Blood
The lighting was fairly one dimensional too - which is a shame as I've begun to realise the importance of such factors, alongside the live music itself.
The set was quick, interspersed with genuine humbled words from lead man Chris Keating, at playing such a great venue. As the band rolled out for the inevitable encore, they hit us with the magic '2080', but I was hugely disappointed not to hear 'I remember', for me the stand out track on 'Odd Blood'. A good gig, but with room for improvement, from a band I think can be truly special.
....Kelly and I were invited to the reception of Nicky & Phil's wedding, at the lovely Peasant public house in Clerkenwell. It had relocated here after their marriage at Islington Town Hall earlier in the day. A complimentary mojito on arrival was seen off as the wedding party finished their banquet upstairs. On descending to the bar, we were almost immediately afforded the first dance - which was very tastefully to Blur's The Universal.
Amidst the chatting, drinking and dancing that ensued, the happy couple found the time to cut the cake.
The other happy couple.
As the night drew to a close, sweat was wiped from dancer's brow and Nicky grabbed the bouquet to chuck at the crowd. I missed who caught it. It wasn't Kelly.
A fantastic evening that followed a superb day. Congratulations Mr & Mrs Westbury.
....For Kelly's birthday, (29 yesterday!), we went to see La Boheme at Soho Theatre.
I'll be honest, I'm not big on opera, but I am a sucker for a good review. This English speaking, contemporary version of the show by Robin Norton-Taylor, had been very well received before reaching Soho, so it seemed like the ideal opportunity to wean ourselves in to the genre. Puccini's four part classic has been translated in to three here, with the middle section relocated and played out before us in the downstairs bar.
We found it quite hard to grasp initially, simply tuning our ears to the voices of Rodolfo, Mimi and the cast, so we could make out the words. (Which we needed, being virgins to this story and opera on the whole). Yet the set was simple. A typical student flat, with no money in the electricity meter and solace found in a drink down the pub, or in a burgeoning relationship.
It was the middle act, performed in the bar, that was so compelling and convinced me of what a good, unique version this was. To be so up close to the performance, and then, suddenly, realise that 50% of the bar are cast extras playing along.
We were suddenly submerged, within La Boheme. We felt part of the scene ourselves, as though we were having some direct influence on how these young love relationships would transpire.
(Cock Tavern example, Kilburn, 2010)
The third and final part took us back to the traditional stage, as Mimi's death was played out, superbly and rather emotionally. I have written before about my love for music, but never thought it would transcend to opera. Certainly with this version of La Boheme, it has. At times the vocal arrangements even reminded me of Radiohead songs, bestowing power, then extraordinary elegance on the listener's ear. A thoroughly enjoyable show - perhaps not one for opera die-hards, as it is deliberately rough around the edges, (charmingly so), but to the uninitiated or curious, this is a belter.
....A while back, it was conceived that we would try and reproduce our France holidays from yore. I'm not sure where it originated, perhaps Andy, perhaps Ian. Maybe even Dad. Not me. But it was a brilliant plan. To recreate one of those numerous summer holidays where the Palmer and Barker families joined and retreated to a deserted French Gite. We had to compromise a little to achieve this - well, a lot - the country for a start. We settled upon Suffolk and The Cranhouse in Elveden.
The Cranhouse
So not France at all. Not that we noticed. The two famelies were united once more, a mile down a gravelly path in a detached cottage, reminiscent of every French trip we could remember. And this time, an added bonus - each of the 'kids' brought their respective partners. Ian brought his wife Susie on the eve of their first wedding anniversary. Ruth brought Andy, James Theresa and I was with Kelly.
All of us, mid walk.
Twelve family and friends to spend a long weekend together, to reminisce, to play games, swat flies, argue, drink wine, eat cheese. More wine and a bit more cheese. It was set to be perfect. And it was. We all arrived on Saturday afternoon and quickly set about watching videos of old holidays. There was a particular year most anticipated - that of 1991, Chateau Renault, when extreme boredom, (no doubt) and slight lunacy led the kids to perform a music video, of sorts, to a Jive Bunny medley. Oh how we laughed. And oh how we recreated it.......that's right. As punishment for losing the Ian & Susie hosted pub quiz, Dad, Kelly, James, Ruth and Joan put on something, erm, special for us.
Dad even marked the occasion, (back to the holiday now, rather than that performance above!), by handing out some mugs he'd got made which became the only place from which we'd drink our hot beverages, (see slideshow below). On that first night we had a takeaway and played games. It was to be a familiar but welcomed pattern for the rest of our stay. We had intermittent walks. A couple of BBQs. Perfect. Oh, but there was one misdemeanour too - Kelly managed to accidentally slice her hand open on a broken glass in a washing up bowl.
Cut under cover
After turning green and fainting, (not to mentioned me flustering and panicking), Eric & Ian held her together with tape before she slept painfully on it. The result was going to A&E the next day and 5 stitches in the wound. A painful blip that didn't even deter Kelly from having a great time, nor the rest of us.
Our final morning had the lovely coincidence of falling on Ian & Susie's first wedding anniversary, so a champagne breakfast was in order.
It was a holiday to remember and one that reminded us, (if indeed we needed it), why we're such good friends, what great fun those annual France holidays actually were and that we'd really, really like to do it all over again. Please?!
....Last night a few of us met up together for dinner at El Camino in Soho, which was great. It quickly turned boistrous as the food and drink flowed, so we planned our next steps.
Roy, Ben, Mel, Lorenzo, Chloe, Alice, Ed
We decided to channel our gregarious nature at Lucky Voice over the road with a right good sing song.
A really fun night and great to get out altogether again. Encore une fois.
....We got back from our summer holiday last Sunday afternoon, but it's taken me a little time to pull together this post. Largely because of the silly amounts of photos and videos I had to edit, but also simply working out just how to set it out. Where to start. In short, our trip was fantastic. That is because we found Croatia to be a beautiful country both naturally and architecturally, whilst (generally) it's people were also incredibly good natured.
We landed in Split and immediately hired a car to drive North East, three hours inland to the Plitvice Lakes National Park.
Despite the torrential rain, that simply wouldn't cease, (well, typically not until we began our return journey), we witnessed the most stunning natural beauty we'd ever seen. It was worth the rain, many times over.
Once dry, we made our way back to Split, dropped off the car and took the ferry over to the Island of Hvar, where we had accommodation booked for the following three nights. Hvar is famed for it's beauty, it's archeology, it's land full of lavender and the Adriatic-fringed pebble shores with crystal clear waters. In fact, we found the latter comment is true of every Croatian Island off the mainland coast. Stunning. We were soon reminded that it was high season, with Hvar Town bustling with life - from expensive boats and show ponies, to a cosmopolitan, alfresco cafe culture. It seemed more French Riviera than small Croatian Island. But this was no bad thing, as it prompted us to explore the island further. So we spent a day on our local beach, 'hidden' down a rocky path in a bay.
Next we took a day trip to various bays amongst the Pakleni Islands, where we were afforded more stunning views, waters and food, (courtesy of a fish supper aboard our tour boat).
We also took a trip to the local village beach of Milna, which away from the bustle, was the best we'd seen yet. Three nights in Hvar proved the perfect amount, so we decided to move on to Vis. This is a smaller Island, further out in to the Adriatic, that only became part of Croatia again in 1991 when Independence was gained. An annual summer festival celebrates the Battle of Vis, fought between the Austrian and Italian Navies in 1866, which Kelly and I stepped right in to. (The festival, not the battle, you understand).
The journey to Vis wasn't as straight forward as we'd hoped. We hadn't anticipated just how busy the lone ferry that week would be. We also hadn't bought tickets in advance. Our ongoing plans we only saved by corrupt guards that took money in hand and ushered us aboard. Phew. Once on the island, our preconception of easily finding accommodation was also shattered. The tourist information were clearly taking everyone, (ourselves included), for mugs by claiming only the local, characterless (and expensive), hotel had availability. And strangely, they took the cash. Hmm. We weren't amused, but at that time of night we had little option.
We decided not to stay in Vis Town after that and went online to secure a beautiful apartment on the other side of the island in Komiza. There we stayed for the rest of our holiday. But I made Kelly get there the hard way of course - by hiring bikes and cycling. Tough, but incredible. From here we took a day trip to the island of Bisevo and to the Blue Cave. This natural wonder is unbelievable. A deep blue refracts off the water as the sun hits it from outside, and fills the cave. Pictures simply can't do it justice.
Then we went to the opposite side of the island to a rare sandy (& pebbled) beach, Porat. On our penultimate day we decided to hire bikes again to cycle to an incredible bay, Svitnja. Like something from a movie set, it was simply too good to be true. We wiled away an afternoon in the clear water and sunning ourselves.
Our last day was spent on our local beach, a bit further round the island away from the port. Relaxed and hot, it was the perfect way to end. Our journey home proved to be quite amusing too, kind off. We got to bed after midnight and had to be up at 4am to start our journey. Unfortunately this precious need for sleep came on the most exuberant and boisterous night of the festival so far.
Our early bus turned in to the 'last bus home' for a host of local revellers. In turn, our ferry, (which we also paid a corrupt guard to get on to), became a zombie vessel as the said revellers realised they were tired after all! And then that was it really, holiday over.You may have noticed very little description of food, (to which you are normally accustomed to), but we ate and enjoyed too much to write about it all, (you'll see plenty of pictures in the slide show at the end).
Essentially though, there is doubtless an Italian influence, (Croatia's relatively near neighbours), which mixed with incredible local fresh fish, speciality sheep cheeses and good cuts of meat, makes for fantastic food. I was happy on that front, certainly. I would recommend Croatia to everyone, particularly the Dalmatian islands, my only suggestion being that you visit just out of high season, when it may be a little quieter, (although it proved no problem for us). A brilliant holiday and the first time I have relaxed and sunbathed that much in about eight years. Kelly, again? Yes please.
....A few of us had bought tickets for this a while ago and excitement was building. Largely because Roxy Music, (oh how I made mum & dad jealous!), were headlining the Saturday night. I had never been to the festival before, but others had, claiming it was good fun. I suppose it is subjective - if you like who's playing, then you're in for a treat.
With my only other festival experience coming at Glasto three years ago in cruel wet, muddy weather, this was a sharp contrast. The sun was out and so was a much more hardened crowd, in that an East London festival brought more locals, lads and over make-upped girls, looking to be seen rather than see the music. I tried not to let this put me off, particularly as I was amongst friends and watching bands I expected those very people not to be. Snobby? Yes probably. But I wanted a good time.
In reality I (really) watched three bands. Starting with the Invisible, who I thought were excellent. They have an underlying rhythm which is infectious, whilst they can hit you with punk, prog, indie...whatever. And it works. We then sat and relaxed in the sun as Wild Beasts played, (very well), in the background, before heading over, very excitedly to Yeasayer. I have wanted to see them live for some time, (and have even booked a gig at the Roundhouse in a few months too), and they didn't disappoint. A danceable, intoxicating mix of tribal, pop and indie songs that had the crowd in a frenzy as the sun set overhead. Brilliant.
Yeasayer
We all then scurried over to the main stage for the main event. Roxy Music. I have albums, but naturally lean toward the more classic songs. Bryan, Phil, Andy & Paul all looked hugely dapper up on stage, but, (for me), were slow to start. Whilst note perfect and Bryan throwing some shapes the old boy should be proud off, the more slow burning songs were failing to ignite the increasingly impatient crowd.
But that soon changed as the band rolled out the classics - Jealous Guy, Virginia Plain and Love is the Drug to close the set, before returning to encore with Bryan's solo effort, Let's Stick Together and finally, the Strand. In the end it was fantastic, danceable, enjoyable - Bryan making the girls swoon and the boys wish they can look and sound that good in 25 years time! LoveBox is a festival I'm pretty sure I would never return too, but I'm glad I got to see and enjoy who I did.
....Last Thursday Kelly, Lou, John and I went to see Florence + the Machine outside at Somerset House. I love these outdoor gigs - such a beautiful setting, made more wonderful by the type of act you're seeing.
Tonight was no different and we were lucky the evening stayed dry throughout. If I am totally honest, I have never completely warmed to Florence Welch. I have her album, on which are some good songs, very good in fact, but my problem lies with her voice. On record it's not too over powering, but on the occasions I have seen a live performance, (on the telly box), she sounds much too shrieky.
Lou, John & Kelly
It's almost like the song is beyond her. Tonight, that wasn't (quite) the case. She appeared on stage in an all white, ghostly hooded gown, her red locks flickering from beneath. The set was immaculate, running through the best of their debut album and also a couple of new, unreleased tracks that sounded very good too. As the euphoria built around the encore, that's when, (I felt), the shrieking returned.
But such was the fever of the crowd and the dancing to the beat, you couldn't really hear the misplaced vocals. So in the end it didn't matter, or detract from a great gig. I think the smaller, more intimate venue helped her reign in that projection she may feel she has to belt out at larger venues. The restraint made me like her again. I think.
....On Wednesday night, Kelly and I managed to get tickets to a secret gig at the Empire for the Arcade Fire.
I had never been to the venue before, but it is beautiful and despite our seats high in the upper circle we seemed to still be close to the stage and have a great view.
The gig, it seemed, was a chance for the band to try out tracks from the forthcoming album The Suburbs and with each number, they instantly sounded memorable and likable.
Arcade Fire, gig opener.
Intertwined between these new songs were classics from their two preceding albums, Neon Bible and Funeral.
Neighbourhood No.2 (Laika)
These sent Kel & I and the crowd totally berserk. I last saw them at Glastonbury where I thought they were incredible, but in hindsight something was lost in the open air that night. Tonight they are contained by the grand Empire, the electricity of their songs and the energy of Win Butler and his band, radiating through the audience.
They encored with three tracks and ended the set, as the did that night at Glastonbury, with the euphoric and sing-along inducing 'Wake up'.
A truly brilliant gig that I expect will be tough to match by anyone.
.jpeg)
