....After a lazy morning, an unexpected call from Quoc dragged me out of the house and to lunch, at Food Hall in Old Street.
Lasagne / Sausage casserole
It was lovely to catch up, his shoe business still going very well, and his presentation is more like an English gent each day!
Quoc serves. Liam looks adoringly!
Afterwards I cycled up to Stoke Newington to meet Kelly at Gemma & Nico's house. We had a cuppa and talked babies and houses, (Gemma is 4 months pregnant), before the plum tart was pulled out.
Gemma, Nico & Kel
This pleased me a great deal, (as you can imagine a dessert does), so it topped off a rather lovely afternoon. And with only a 3 day week in store, I'm slightly giddy all over again.
....Kelly and I returned on Monday from our month long trip in South America. Just to remind you, we were given the opportunity after I won an award at work. In memory of Matt Elliott, a former employee of AMV who tragically died, the 'Radiator Award' is a 2 week travel bursary that, in his spirit, should be used for the 'adventure of a lifetime'. We extended our 2 weeks to a month and late last year booked the trip with Trailfinders, them helping us to work out the most suitable, productive route to take. So it transpired we were to visit Argentina, (Buenos Aires / Mendoza / Iguazu Falls), Brazil, (Rio) and Colombia, (Taganga / Sierra Nevada for the 'Lost City' trek / Cartagena).
This is, (as briefly as possible), how it all shaped up:
Buenos Aires, Argentina. We spent 5 days here, staying in the San Telmo district, with it's antiques shops and a market on Sundays. Our highlight was an empanada cooking class in the suburbs of the city. It was hosted by Teresita, at her lovely home and included a vast, meat laden barbeque with plenty of wine. We also saw in New Year whilst we were here, dining al fresco on Plaza Dorrego - a superb evening. We also enjoyed Recoleta cemetery and La Boca.
(New Year's Eve)
Mendoza, Argentina. We took an overnight bus, that was more akin to flying business class, to reach Mendoza. Here we completed a vineyard tour, in Chacras de Coria, by bicycle, spent a day horse trekking in the shadow of the Andes and ate our best steak, at Don Mario.
Iguazu Falls, Argentina. Perhaps the highlight of my whole trip, the falls blew me away. They can be witnessed from both Brazil and Argentina, which we did. In one day. The sheer volume of water and the noisy rage that ensues, is breath taking. Our accommodation here was also spectacular in its own, hidden, secretive way. A wonderful couple of days.
(Our accommodation & the falls)
Rio, Brazil. This, due to its brief nature, could almost be considered a token visit. Only 3 days. But boy was it worth it. We crammed in Corcovado, (statue of Christ), a Favela tour, Santa Teresa and time on Ipanema beach.
Taganga, Colombia. We landed at Santa Marta, but our bags didn't. We moved on to Taganga where we had accommodation. 27 hours later, our bags were returned. Two hours after that, they were gone again: stolen, after our room was broken in to. One hour after that, they returned once more, after being gathered from the hillside behind our hostel, minus a few items. Drama. As a result of this, our time in Taganga wasn't as productive as we hoped, but still enjoyable.
Cuidad Perdida, (Lost City), trek, Sierra Nevada, Colombia. An incredible five day trek, reaching the city on day three, then retracing our steps a day quicker on the return. The trek itself was a challenge, with some gruelling hills and ravine crossings, whilst the city exceeded all expectations in its scale, history and beauty. We were treated exceptionally well throughout, with our guide Ali & his team being informative, helpful, master chefs and fruit providers at the most crucial times. We walked with wonderful people and so had a wonderful time.
Cartagena, Colombia. The final destination of our holiday and the most architecturally beautiful. The old city, surrounded by a thick defence wall, with cannons peeping out, used to keep pirates at bay way back when. The buildings within these walls have remained untouched, providing an almost living museum of colonial housing lining intertwined streets, each charismatic in it's colour and decay. Down the road, the oh so different new city, where high rise hotels and casinos are the backdrop to Cartagena's beach. It isn't the greatest beach, so Kelly and I visited the truly Carribbean Playa Blanca to really relax.
Home. London. Now we're back, it has taken this week to fully recover. We lost a night's sleep due to travel, so have been catching up ever since. It has also taken a week to fully recognise just what an incredible month we have had. How fortunate we have been, what truly memorable sights and fantastic people that we've met. I would like to take the opportunity to once again thank AMV, for the generosity of the award, but also for the great spirit in which it is given. Also to thank Matt's parents, Rick & Sue and his sister Sarah for their endless positivity and warmth - the gift of a journal that they gave me, now fully filled, will be appearing on these pages very soon. (You can follow Rick & Sue on their antipodean adventure here.)
....Kelly and I have recently both purcahsed new bikes, using the Cycle Scheme at work.
Black out
I decided to get a road bke - not for the daily commute, but for the cycling holidays I hope to make and perhaps even the odd race. It is a Planet X Pro Carbon SRAM Red, and is rather nice!
Kelly plumped for an off the peg single speed, with the Focale 44 Full Moon. Subtle, classy, fast. Just like her owner.
....Kelly suggested we go to Richmond this weekend, without, I suspect, giving a great deal of thought as to the distance involved. Particularly as we planned to do it by bike. But, on waking up with the sun raging unusually in the mid-October sky, we went through with the 33mile round trip. And it was totally worth it. Our destination, initially, was in fact not Richmond Park, but Petersham Nurseries just down the road.
We had been recommended to stroll around the plants, beautiful garden furniture and homeware, (all entirely unaffordable), but also to eat here.
There are two options, the greenhoused restaurant, (a bit chic for a lazy Sunday afternoon, but looked wonderful), and the al fresco cafe. We did the latter.
Al fresco
It was great - salad, soup and a sarnie followed by good coffee and incredible home baked cakes.
Lunch
Parsnip cake with maple syrup/clotted cream centre
After a look around, (including a C-list celebrity spot, in Holly Willoughby), we headed up to the park itself.
It is a vast place - reminding me a lot of New York's Central Park - with London's metropolis sprawled as a backdrop to the green expanse. I had been told how deer freely roam here, but was surprised they seemed so at ease with the public nearby, with only a mildly watchful stag, (complete with incredible forked antlers), showing any interest.
We passed through, lapping up the all too brief respite from London City, before heading home in the fading sun. In all, a fantastic suggestion by Kelly, that proved truly enjoyable.
Full reel here:
(By the way, I wanted to trump the earlier C-list spot, with what I consider to be an A-list spot at the start of our journey. Vivienne Westwood at a bus stop, working out her route, in Old Street. Spot!)
....Or the Boris Bikes as I like to call them. Or BB, even, if you like an acronym. Well, whatever, they're here. In London. And have been for about three weeks now.
Despite my devotion to cycling, using my own bike, I immediately signed up to the scheme. I think it's great to initiate more people with cycling for health, congestion, green reasons and more. My plan is to use them as an overspill as it were - if I run to work, I ride one home. Popping somewhere I don't want to leave my bike? Jump on a BB. You get the idea.
And I have used them several times already - my only gripe is that the gearing is incredibly low, meaning you can't really build up good cadence without your legs spinning at a crazy speed. But I think this is part of the design for them to be used casually, (meaning leisurely), over short distances. Hopefully they will introduce them over a broader area too - for example pushing the scheme further East in to Hackney, (which is officially the most cycle friendly Borough in London I'll have you know). In short, a good thing. And a good thing implemented by Boris....and I really didn't think I would ever say that.
....We got back from our summer holiday last Sunday afternoon, but it's taken me a little time to pull together this post. Largely because of the silly amounts of photos and videos I had to edit, but also simply working out just how to set it out. Where to start. In short, our trip was fantastic. That is because we found Croatia to be a beautiful country both naturally and architecturally, whilst (generally) it's people were also incredibly good natured.
We landed in Split and immediately hired a car to drive North East, three hours inland to the Plitvice Lakes National Park.
Despite the torrential rain, that simply wouldn't cease, (well, typically not until we began our return journey), we witnessed the most stunning natural beauty we'd ever seen. It was worth the rain, many times over.
Once dry, we made our way back to Split, dropped off the car and took the ferry over to the Island of Hvar, where we had accommodation booked for the following three nights. Hvar is famed for it's beauty, it's archeology, it's land full of lavender and the Adriatic-fringed pebble shores with crystal clear waters. In fact, we found the latter comment is true of every Croatian Island off the mainland coast. Stunning. We were soon reminded that it was high season, with Hvar Town bustling with life - from expensive boats and show ponies, to a cosmopolitan, alfresco cafe culture. It seemed more French Riviera than small Croatian Island. But this was no bad thing, as it prompted us to explore the island further. So we spent a day on our local beach, 'hidden' down a rocky path in a bay.
Next we took a day trip to various bays amongst the Pakleni Islands, where we were afforded more stunning views, waters and food, (courtesy of a fish supper aboard our tour boat).
We also took a trip to the local village beach of Milna, which away from the bustle, was the best we'd seen yet. Three nights in Hvar proved the perfect amount, so we decided to move on to Vis. This is a smaller Island, further out in to the Adriatic, that only became part of Croatia again in 1991 when Independence was gained. An annual summer festival celebrates the Battle of Vis, fought between the Austrian and Italian Navies in 1866, which Kelly and I stepped right in to. (The festival, not the battle, you understand).
The journey to Vis wasn't as straight forward as we'd hoped. We hadn't anticipated just how busy the lone ferry that week would be. We also hadn't bought tickets in advance. Our ongoing plans we only saved by corrupt guards that took money in hand and ushered us aboard. Phew. Once on the island, our preconception of easily finding accommodation was also shattered. The tourist information were clearly taking everyone, (ourselves included), for mugs by claiming only the local, characterless (and expensive), hotel had availability. And strangely, they took the cash. Hmm. We weren't amused, but at that time of night we had little option.
We decided not to stay in Vis Town after that and went online to secure a beautiful apartment on the other side of the island in Komiza. There we stayed for the rest of our holiday. But I made Kelly get there the hard way of course - by hiring bikes and cycling. Tough, but incredible. From here we took a day trip to the island of Bisevo and to the Blue Cave. This natural wonder is unbelievable. A deep blue refracts off the water as the sun hits it from outside, and fills the cave. Pictures simply can't do it justice.
Then we went to the opposite side of the island to a rare sandy (& pebbled) beach, Porat. On our penultimate day we decided to hire bikes again to cycle to an incredible bay, Svitnja. Like something from a movie set, it was simply too good to be true. We wiled away an afternoon in the clear water and sunning ourselves.
Our last day was spent on our local beach, a bit further round the island away from the port. Relaxed and hot, it was the perfect way to end. Our journey home proved to be quite amusing too, kind off. We got to bed after midnight and had to be up at 4am to start our journey. Unfortunately this precious need for sleep came on the most exuberant and boisterous night of the festival so far.
Our early bus turned in to the 'last bus home' for a host of local revellers. In turn, our ferry, (which we also paid a corrupt guard to get on to), became a zombie vessel as the said revellers realised they were tired after all! And then that was it really, holiday over.You may have noticed very little description of food, (to which you are normally accustomed to), but we ate and enjoyed too much to write about it all, (you'll see plenty of pictures in the slide show at the end).
Essentially though, there is doubtless an Italian influence, (Croatia's relatively near neighbours), which mixed with incredible local fresh fish, speciality sheep cheeses and good cuts of meat, makes for fantastic food. I was happy on that front, certainly. I would recommend Croatia to everyone, particularly the Dalmatian islands, my only suggestion being that you visit just out of high season, when it may be a little quieter, (although it proved no problem for us). A brilliant holiday and the first time I have relaxed and sunbathed that much in about eight years. Kelly, again? Yes please.
....Not just a 'Gentleman's' cycle club, but a fully fledged brand that oozes style and exclusivity whilst somehow managing to steer clear of complete snootiness. Rapha's heart and soul is in cycling - for that is how they began, but now they are so much more.
It seems a brand is nothing nowadays unless you've had a pop up shop. Rapha's Cycle Club is their take on this theme, found on Clerkenwell Road, a huge cycling thoroughfare.
The space acts as a club house, in a way, for riders to use as a pit stop, but it is also a gallery, coffee shop, book shop and a place to watch Le Tour live.
Firstly, I was able to form an opinion of the shop first and foremost - which I loved. I like the clothing, the huge Citroen H Van parked in the middle of the floor and that during this Private View they brought out incredible cheese platters and wine.
It is and feels classy. Yet homely. The film itself was lovely - a 14min abbreviated version of a forthcoming longer feature - the debut film of photographer Ingham. As you'd imagine, therefore, it was beautifully shot and edited, but what came across most is the warmth and passion of Pegoretti. It is a humorous and ultimately endearing piece and to have him standing right alongside us at the premiere made it all the more appealing.
Pegoretti at work
I am going to go back to Rapha Cycle Club as often as I can before it moves on. Sadly it is only temporary, but a good excuse to buy a piece of their lovely clothing, if only to serve as a memory!
....This cycling cafe & workshop has been open for a couple of months now and I have stopped briefly for a drink before, but this time I wanted to make fuller use.
Liam, Richie and I decided to go there after work on Thursday to watch the highlights of Le Tour from that day.
The bar and cafe is fantastic, clad in memorabilia and plenty of French bunting in homage to the big race.
The coffee is good, (reputedly), and the home made goats cheese and broccoli pie that I had was wonderful.
They even have a license to serve alcohol too. We sat back and watched Mark Cavendish live up to his reputation as one of the most fearsome sprinters in the pack and then watched him break down on the podium after quite a tough year.
We stayed there for a few drinks more, then cycled off, but it is definitely worth a visit if you're pedalling in the area.
....Veronika's flat is a lovely high ceilinged, large windowed one bedroom flat on the top floor. her natural taste and style means what little there is to adorn is done so wonderfully well. Her bedroom is tucked at the bag in the open plan space, meaning the morning sun flickers in your eyes to wake you up. Lovely.
....The last evening on our weekend in Berlin was spent here.
We aren't members, but lucked out as a friend of Kelly's writes for the magazine and got us entry.
We went straight to the top floor rooftop and spent the whole evening exclusively there.
I can't therefore speak for the rest of the hotel and facilities, (although I have already heard good things from afar), but we thought it fantastic. Aside from the amazing view, the first thing that struck us was the relative value.
Dinner, served from the rooftop kitchen and open BBQ grill was priced between £9-£18 for a main, whilst cocktails came in at about £6.50. I'm not saying that is cheap - but in a place that is billed as exclusive and with the scene that was set before us, I think it was well worth it.
There is a very small pool up there, almost a token pool really, but in the heat of the evening, people were using it and you can see its appeal. The bar from which the drinks were served, sat in the middle of the floor, covered, as was the kitchen. We chose to sit in seats there, rather than outside in the terrace / sun lounger territory.
Between cocktails I ate tomato gazpacho, vegetable terrine and then a lemon tart. Each dish got better and better. Kelly ate......well, I can't actually remember what she ate, (how selfish!), but I know it was enjoyed. As the sun went down, the candles came out and the moon rose. We didn't move.
The rooftop is certainly a place I would come back too - relaxing, great setting, good value, lovely service.
On the way out we even stopped for a game of table tennis in the foyer. Naturally I won! If you're in Berlin and you fancy a bit of fancy, then go to Soho Haus.
