....The weekend was spent at Far Moor End cottage, near Ennerdale in the Lake District with twelve guys and Nick, the stag. The rolling hills provided a stunning backdrop to our accommodation, as we dined al fresco on the Friday evening with a BBQ.
On the Saturday we went gorge walking, which was fantastic fun - I impressed myself by jumping of several ledges I thought I wouldn't. Our reward was a pizza night and a top up of booze.
...Kelly threw up the suggestion of a day trip a little while ago. Then suddenly the Bank Holiday weekend was here. And suddenly Whitstable was our choice. We got up and on a train from Victoria that got us there by 11.30am and as the sun beat down, we made our way straight to the beach front and harbour. Almost immediately we were tucking in to oysters from Wee Willy Winkles, which were superb. Fish and chips, eaten on the pebbled shore, promptly followed.
We couldn't believe the weather, so stayed where we were for a while, before getting the customary ice cream for our walk to Whitstable Castle. Recently regenerated, the grounds looked exceptional.
We then walked along to the Tankerton edge of the coast and back, finishing in Whitstable town centre, at The Cheese Box for some fantastic cheese & wine.
We finished back on the beach front, at a bar, as the sun lowered in the sky. It was a wonderful day and we really liked the town, a lot. The return train journey flew by, before meeting up with Nick for a couple of nightcaps. Very merry, but very happy.
....Whilst I was in South America, I filled a journal given to me by Rick & Sue Elliott - parents of Matt. It was a wonderful present and allowed me to put to use my love for writing, as I recorded everything we did.
When I arrived home, in addition to having the journal as a keep-sake, I decided to scan every page and to drop in relevant images where I had left gaps. As a result, the journal now exists as a digital file and one that I can share. (so, help yourselves below).
Take a read if you fancy, but I won't be held responsible for poor spelling, scrawled handwriting and swear words!
....Kelly and I returned on Monday from our month long trip in South America. Just to remind you, we were given the opportunity after I won an award at work. In memory of Matt Elliott, a former employee of AMV who tragically died, the 'Radiator Award' is a 2 week travel bursary that, in his spirit, should be used for the 'adventure of a lifetime'. We extended our 2 weeks to a month and late last year booked the trip with Trailfinders, them helping us to work out the most suitable, productive route to take. So it transpired we were to visit Argentina, (Buenos Aires / Mendoza / Iguazu Falls), Brazil, (Rio) and Colombia, (Taganga / Sierra Nevada for the 'Lost City' trek / Cartagena).
This is, (as briefly as possible), how it all shaped up:
Buenos Aires, Argentina. We spent 5 days here, staying in the San Telmo district, with it's antiques shops and a market on Sundays. Our highlight was an empanada cooking class in the suburbs of the city. It was hosted by Teresita, at her lovely home and included a vast, meat laden barbeque with plenty of wine. We also saw in New Year whilst we were here, dining al fresco on Plaza Dorrego - a superb evening. We also enjoyed Recoleta cemetery and La Boca.
(New Year's Eve)
Mendoza, Argentina. We took an overnight bus, that was more akin to flying business class, to reach Mendoza. Here we completed a vineyard tour, in Chacras de Coria, by bicycle, spent a day horse trekking in the shadow of the Andes and ate our best steak, at Don Mario.
Iguazu Falls, Argentina. Perhaps the highlight of my whole trip, the falls blew me away. They can be witnessed from both Brazil and Argentina, which we did. In one day. The sheer volume of water and the noisy rage that ensues, is breath taking. Our accommodation here was also spectacular in its own, hidden, secretive way. A wonderful couple of days.
(Our accommodation & the falls)
Rio, Brazil. This, due to its brief nature, could almost be considered a token visit. Only 3 days. But boy was it worth it. We crammed in Corcovado, (statue of Christ), a Favela tour, Santa Teresa and time on Ipanema beach.
Taganga, Colombia. We landed at Santa Marta, but our bags didn't. We moved on to Taganga where we had accommodation. 27 hours later, our bags were returned. Two hours after that, they were gone again: stolen, after our room was broken in to. One hour after that, they returned once more, after being gathered from the hillside behind our hostel, minus a few items. Drama. As a result of this, our time in Taganga wasn't as productive as we hoped, but still enjoyable.
Cuidad Perdida, (Lost City), trek, Sierra Nevada, Colombia. An incredible five day trek, reaching the city on day three, then retracing our steps a day quicker on the return. The trek itself was a challenge, with some gruelling hills and ravine crossings, whilst the city exceeded all expectations in its scale, history and beauty. We were treated exceptionally well throughout, with our guide Ali & his team being informative, helpful, master chefs and fruit providers at the most crucial times. We walked with wonderful people and so had a wonderful time.
Cartagena, Colombia. The final destination of our holiday and the most architecturally beautiful. The old city, surrounded by a thick defence wall, with cannons peeping out, used to keep pirates at bay way back when. The buildings within these walls have remained untouched, providing an almost living museum of colonial housing lining intertwined streets, each charismatic in it's colour and decay. Down the road, the oh so different new city, where high rise hotels and casinos are the backdrop to Cartagena's beach. It isn't the greatest beach, so Kelly and I visited the truly Carribbean Playa Blanca to really relax.
Home. London. Now we're back, it has taken this week to fully recover. We lost a night's sleep due to travel, so have been catching up ever since. It has also taken a week to fully recognise just what an incredible month we have had. How fortunate we have been, what truly memorable sights and fantastic people that we've met. I would like to take the opportunity to once again thank AMV, for the generosity of the award, but also for the great spirit in which it is given. Also to thank Matt's parents, Rick & Sue and his sister Sarah for their endless positivity and warmth - the gift of a journal that they gave me, now fully filled, will be appearing on these pages very soon. (You can follow Rick & Sue on their antipodean adventure here.)
....From today there will be no blogging for month. As many of you know, Kelly and I are lucky enough to be spending four weeks in South America, taking in Argentina, (Buenos Aires/Mendosa/Iguassu Falls), Brazil, (Rio), Colombia, (Santa Marta/Cartagena). The reason we are going I mentioned in a previous post, so look here to familiarise yourselves.
Happy New Year. See you in 2011!
There will be a big blog update on our return in late January, but now we will have to leave for warmer climes. See you soon! x
....I booked tickets a few months ago for Ben and I to go up to Newcastle. Largely because the tickets were such good value, but also to get Ben out of the familiarity of Islington and into the realisation that Newcastle is a wonderful place. Two days later, I suspect he agreed. After arriving late on Friday, we crashed out. On the Saturday we braved the icy chill down on the seafront, our reward being a cuppa and a scone in the ever marvellous Rendezvous cafe. After lunch we went up to town and specifically down on to the Quayside, to take on the river, bridges, Baltic and Sage spectacles.
After a quick pint in a true Geordie boozer, the Crown Posada, we returned home. Later that evening we met with Tom for a few local pints. On the Sunday, the snow had finally hit, but it didn't stop Andrew driving us in to Tynemouth. We visited the market, then walked on to Crusoe's for a warming beverage. After a hearty home made dinner from mum, we made off to the station to catch the train back to London, only to be told it, (and all others), had been cancelled. With neither of us working on the Monday, we decided to retreat back home, stay the night and make our journey the following day. (Which we managed successfully).
Despite that slight hiccup, it was a great weekend - relaxed and a good introduction for Ben. (The Bigg Market will, thankfully, have to wait for another time!)
....Mum and Dad came down this weekend, apparently the first near Christmas visit that they can remember. After lunch at Nude and a wander around Spitalfields, we returned home before heading out to dinner at La Petite Auberge, on Upper Street.
Bon appetit!
On Sunday, we had breakfast at local favourite Albion, then wandered over to Raven Row Gallery to see the Hilary Lloyd exhibition, (complex installations of audio visual equipment, transmitting films of not much). At least the building itself was a joy to be in, two former Hugenot houses, knocked together and restored. That afternoon I rustled up a prawn & chorizo risotto for everyone before we headed over to the Royal Festival Hall on the South Bank.
Mum had booked us tickets to see the Royal Philharmonic Orchestra perform Schubert, Beethoven & Mozart selected concertos. Having never been inside the Hall, even our seats toward the rear, offered a phenomenal view, with astounding acoustics. The concertos were brilliantly performed and reminded me that I don't listen to enough of this music. A perfect end to a Sunday evening by the Thames, and another great weekend.
....I know anniversaries should be of the post-wedding variety, but Kel and I decided to celebrate one year together with a jaunt to Hastings. The reasons were two-fold. To get out of London for a night, but also to, (sad but true), go for a walk in our new shoes, bought for our South American adventure.
Foyles B&B
We stayed at a wonderful little B&B called Foyles. Set in a listed 18th Century building, right on the front in Hastings Old Town, owners Sharon & David, (and dog Charlie), have created a World War II memorabilia cafe, above which sits three twee rooms.
Cafe scene, complete with bunting.
We arrived on Friday evening and decided to stay in. After being greeted by Sharon, we were left to ourselves in the cafe, so we sat amongst the paraphernalia and got stuck in to plenty of pre-bought cheese and wine.
Say cheese!
The plan for the walk the following day was along the coast, up to Hastings Country Park and back. About 10k. It proved to be a wonderful and indeed testing walk. The ups and downs along the cliff edges made for stunning scenic views and ultimately a rewarding, strenuous walk. (Our new shoes will have been pleased with their introduction to the outdoors).
(That's the sea behind us).
We finished our brief visit with a wander around the Old Town, with George Street in particular a really lovely parade of shops and cafes. (We took advantage of one, of course, with a coffee and a cake). A lovely, if brief, way to celebrate our first year together. (And I thoroughly recommend staying at Foyles B&B too).
....Kelly and I spent a vast majority of today at the Counter Cafe in Hackney Wick.
Aside from it being one of our favourites for breakfast and coffee, there was another purpose. Just over a week ago I was fortunate enough and honoured to win the Matt Elliott memorial award at AMV. In its second year and now named the Radiator Award, (for it is awarded to warm, hard working, smiling people - just like Matt), it is voted for by colleagues and amounts to a travel bursary for a two week holiday of a lifetime.
Matt Elliott
I was flabbergasted and immensely lucky to win. I have thought about little else since - and neither has Kelly after it was revealed that the trip is for two and she is my chosen one. It is an award borne out of tragic circumstances, but one that serves as a reminder to Matt's wonderful personality and love for the outdoors. More information about Matt can be found here. Kelly and I have whittled it down, we think, to Argentina, Peru and Brazil. We are extending the two weeks to a month and plan to leave straight after Christmas. Needless to say we are excited. Just a bit. So, after a marvellous hearty breakfast, we pulled out the laptop and surfed for hours.
Scrambled egg with tomato, basil & chorizo
Cap
Kel at work, (sort of).
The cafe has a striking contrast - from the interior kitchen with great food, to the out-buildings that house the toilets. Here, the space seems to have it's own unique ecosystem!
Kelly and I are looking to book the holiday within the next month, so will update everyone on what we decide. Once again, a huge thank you to AMV for the generosity of the award and to Matt's family for their positivity and spirit in such adversity.
....A while back, it was conceived that we would try and reproduce our France holidays from yore. I'm not sure where it originated, perhaps Andy, perhaps Ian. Maybe even Dad. Not me. But it was a brilliant plan. To recreate one of those numerous summer holidays where the Palmer and Barker families joined and retreated to a deserted French Gite. We had to compromise a little to achieve this - well, a lot - the country for a start. We settled upon Suffolk and The Cranhouse in Elveden.
The Cranhouse
So not France at all. Not that we noticed. The two famelies were united once more, a mile down a gravelly path in a detached cottage, reminiscent of every French trip we could remember. And this time, an added bonus - each of the 'kids' brought their respective partners. Ian brought his wife Susie on the eve of their first wedding anniversary. Ruth brought Andy, James Theresa and I was with Kelly.
All of us, mid walk.
Twelve family and friends to spend a long weekend together, to reminisce, to play games, swat flies, argue, drink wine, eat cheese. More wine and a bit more cheese. It was set to be perfect. And it was. We all arrived on Saturday afternoon and quickly set about watching videos of old holidays. There was a particular year most anticipated - that of 1991, Chateau Renault, when extreme boredom, (no doubt) and slight lunacy led the kids to perform a music video, of sorts, to a Jive Bunny medley. Oh how we laughed. And oh how we recreated it.......that's right. As punishment for losing the Ian & Susie hosted pub quiz, Dad, Kelly, James, Ruth and Joan put on something, erm, special for us.
Dad even marked the occasion, (back to the holiday now, rather than that performance above!), by handing out some mugs he'd got made which became the only place from which we'd drink our hot beverages, (see slideshow below). On that first night we had a takeaway and played games. It was to be a familiar but welcomed pattern for the rest of our stay. We had intermittent walks. A couple of BBQs. Perfect. Oh, but there was one misdemeanour too - Kelly managed to accidentally slice her hand open on a broken glass in a washing up bowl.
Cut under cover
After turning green and fainting, (not to mentioned me flustering and panicking), Eric & Ian held her together with tape before she slept painfully on it. The result was going to A&E the next day and 5 stitches in the wound. A painful blip that didn't even deter Kelly from having a great time, nor the rest of us.
Our final morning had the lovely coincidence of falling on Ian & Susie's first wedding anniversary, so a champagne breakfast was in order.
It was a holiday to remember and one that reminded us, (if indeed we needed it), why we're such good friends, what great fun those annual France holidays actually were and that we'd really, really like to do it all over again. Please?!
....On Friday morning I joined Kelly and her family down near Bournemouth and the New Forest for a spot of camping.
Small tent, big tent, van. Our set-up.
Whilst Kel had only arrived the day previous, her mum Bev and partner Tan, her sister Jodie, brother Mark and niece Leah, had been there all week.
Kelly, Bev, Jodie, Tan, Leah, Mark.
We spent a dull day, (weather wise), on Bournemouth seafront, walking the sand and watching a show of planes over head as part of the Air Festival that weekend.
Kelly, Jodie and Leah strut their stuff, with Bournemouth Pier as the backdrop.
The scene, (which attracts up to 1.3million people over three days), was like something out of a Martin Parr photograph. Classically British in every sense, from braving a swim in the sea or the wind on the beach, to the previous generation setting up shop outside their beach hut from which to survey the masses.
Cup of tea and a crustless cucumber sandwich please.
After dinner at local Italian restaurant, Alcatraz, (not sure of the Italian link there....), we retreated to camp for late night cards as the rain started to fall for the first time.
The following, (and final), morning Kel and I commandeered the travel stove and served up a fryers delight.
Hungry campers
A fitting way to end a brief but thoroughly enjoyable little camping retreat, that even the predictable British weather couldn't spoil.
....We got back from our summer holiday last Sunday afternoon, but it's taken me a little time to pull together this post. Largely because of the silly amounts of photos and videos I had to edit, but also simply working out just how to set it out. Where to start. In short, our trip was fantastic. That is because we found Croatia to be a beautiful country both naturally and architecturally, whilst (generally) it's people were also incredibly good natured.
We landed in Split and immediately hired a car to drive North East, three hours inland to the Plitvice Lakes National Park.
Despite the torrential rain, that simply wouldn't cease, (well, typically not until we began our return journey), we witnessed the most stunning natural beauty we'd ever seen. It was worth the rain, many times over.
Once dry, we made our way back to Split, dropped off the car and took the ferry over to the Island of Hvar, where we had accommodation booked for the following three nights. Hvar is famed for it's beauty, it's archeology, it's land full of lavender and the Adriatic-fringed pebble shores with crystal clear waters. In fact, we found the latter comment is true of every Croatian Island off the mainland coast. Stunning. We were soon reminded that it was high season, with Hvar Town bustling with life - from expensive boats and show ponies, to a cosmopolitan, alfresco cafe culture. It seemed more French Riviera than small Croatian Island. But this was no bad thing, as it prompted us to explore the island further. So we spent a day on our local beach, 'hidden' down a rocky path in a bay.
Next we took a day trip to various bays amongst the Pakleni Islands, where we were afforded more stunning views, waters and food, (courtesy of a fish supper aboard our tour boat).
We also took a trip to the local village beach of Milna, which away from the bustle, was the best we'd seen yet. Three nights in Hvar proved the perfect amount, so we decided to move on to Vis. This is a smaller Island, further out in to the Adriatic, that only became part of Croatia again in 1991 when Independence was gained. An annual summer festival celebrates the Battle of Vis, fought between the Austrian and Italian Navies in 1866, which Kelly and I stepped right in to. (The festival, not the battle, you understand).
The journey to Vis wasn't as straight forward as we'd hoped. We hadn't anticipated just how busy the lone ferry that week would be. We also hadn't bought tickets in advance. Our ongoing plans we only saved by corrupt guards that took money in hand and ushered us aboard. Phew. Once on the island, our preconception of easily finding accommodation was also shattered. The tourist information were clearly taking everyone, (ourselves included), for mugs by claiming only the local, characterless (and expensive), hotel had availability. And strangely, they took the cash. Hmm. We weren't amused, but at that time of night we had little option.
We decided not to stay in Vis Town after that and went online to secure a beautiful apartment on the other side of the island in Komiza. There we stayed for the rest of our holiday. But I made Kelly get there the hard way of course - by hiring bikes and cycling. Tough, but incredible. From here we took a day trip to the island of Bisevo and to the Blue Cave. This natural wonder is unbelievable. A deep blue refracts off the water as the sun hits it from outside, and fills the cave. Pictures simply can't do it justice.
Then we went to the opposite side of the island to a rare sandy (& pebbled) beach, Porat. On our penultimate day we decided to hire bikes again to cycle to an incredible bay, Svitnja. Like something from a movie set, it was simply too good to be true. We wiled away an afternoon in the clear water and sunning ourselves.
Our last day was spent on our local beach, a bit further round the island away from the port. Relaxed and hot, it was the perfect way to end. Our journey home proved to be quite amusing too, kind off. We got to bed after midnight and had to be up at 4am to start our journey. Unfortunately this precious need for sleep came on the most exuberant and boisterous night of the festival so far.
Our early bus turned in to the 'last bus home' for a host of local revellers. In turn, our ferry, (which we also paid a corrupt guard to get on to), became a zombie vessel as the said revellers realised they were tired after all! And then that was it really, holiday over.You may have noticed very little description of food, (to which you are normally accustomed to), but we ate and enjoyed too much to write about it all, (you'll see plenty of pictures in the slide show at the end).
Essentially though, there is doubtless an Italian influence, (Croatia's relatively near neighbours), which mixed with incredible local fresh fish, speciality sheep cheeses and good cuts of meat, makes for fantastic food. I was happy on that front, certainly. I would recommend Croatia to everyone, particularly the Dalmatian islands, my only suggestion being that you visit just out of high season, when it may be a little quieter, (although it proved no problem for us). A brilliant holiday and the first time I have relaxed and sunbathed that much in about eight years. Kelly, again? Yes please.
....My parents were in town this weekend and, as ever, we had a great time. On their arrival on Friday evening, we kept it simple with a Turkish meal from local TasFirin. Come Saturday morning we went to breakfast at Albion.
We had a fantastic breakfast - dad ate kidneys, whilst mum and I went cold with poached fruit, yoghurt & granola. The prunes, apricot, gooseberries and pear were superb.
We went via the newly refurbished Arnold Circus, before meeting Kelly and heading in to town.
We dropped past the Hot Shoe Gallery in Clerkenwell for the Edgar Martins photography exhibition, then via Rapha for a coffee and some of le Tour.
It was the perfect pick me up before visiting Darkroom, a beautiful shop on Lambs Conduit Street, (itself, the shopping street to be seen on. Apparently), where the stocked products are exquisite, including our very own Lynn and Nick.
After somoething to eat we went to the Tate Britain to see Rude Britannia, a great show documenting British comic art from past and present, showcasing the likes of Gerald Scarfe, Ralph Steadman, The Viz and contemporaries Sarah Lucas and Bob & Roberta Smith. It was a good accumulation of some brilliantly witty, often political humour, at times vulgar, but always funny. From there we walked down to the South Bank to see the model Favela and enjoy a late afternoon drink.
After returning home and a brief change, we stepped out again for dinner at Laxeiro on Columbia Road. Mum, Dad and I have eaten here before, but many years ago, so we were reminded just how good this Spanish tapas is.
A great first day was had, but plenty more eating and drinking to be done! On Sunday, we had breakfast at home together before exploring the best of East London in Columbia Road and Spitalfields Market. At the former, the flowers were resplendent and the music was superb.
Kelly, mum & dad.
At Spitalfields, the sole purpose of our visit was to find dad a pair of glasses from my favourite stand, Klasik. We succeeded and he walked away with a beautiful pair of 1960s frames that had just been put out that morning.
Slick.
We decided to cook up a roast, so set about buying in the goods from Brick Lane market. Roast shoulder of lamb, with veg and tatties. Get in there.
Oh, we started with a bit of hummus and that.
Cooked, served and ready to go.
Portion.
Tucking in.
After wiping the grease from our very own chops, we got on the bus back in to town, to the cinema to see Toy Story 3. It was fantastic, (see mini review here). We came back home to finish the weekend with cheese and biscuits from the French stall on Brick Lane.